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Stress Factor: Temperature & Weather Stress

Frost Heaving

The ground’s way of un-planting your hard work.

Frost Heaving At-a-Glance

Primary Symptom

Plants appearing to "climb" out of the ground, with the root crown or bare roots visible above the soil line.

Time of Year

Most common in Late Winter and Early Spring during "Freeze-Thaw cycles" (warm days and freezing nights).

Physical Evidence

The smoking gun is the “Spongy” or “Cracked” Soil. The ground around the plant will look like it has “exploded” or “bubbled up.” You may see large cracks in the soil or a “honeycomb” pattern of ice crystals just below the surface. If you step on the ground, it will feel hollow or spongy.

Frost Heaving Explained: Impact and Recovery

Frost heaving is a mechanical “ejection” of the plant from the soil. It occurs in soils that hold a lot of water (like silty or clay soils). As the ground freezes and thaws repeatedly, ice lenses form under the surface. These lenses expand, physically pushing the soil and the plant upward. Because the plant’s roots are anchored, the “heaving” can actually snap the roots or leave the root ball exposed to the freezing air.

The Impact Scale is Localized to specific garden beds or newly planted areas. The Recovery Potential is High, provided the roots are tucked back into the soil before they dry out completely.

Clues In Turf

In the lawn, frost heaving is rare but can occur in newly seeded areas or thin turf. You will see small “mounds” or bumps in the lawn that make the surface feel uneven. This is often the cause of “lumpy” lawns in the spring.

Close up of hand in turf.
A woman's hand in ornamental bush plant.

Clues In Plants

Newly planted perennials (like Heuchera or Hostas) are the primary victims. You will see the entire crown of the plant sitting 1-2 inches above the soil. For small shrubs, you may notice they are leaning at odd angles because the roots on one side were snapped or pushed up.

Managing Frost Heaving: Immediate and Future Steps

Immediate Action:

The “Gentle Reset.” Do not try to “hammer” the plant back down. If the ground is thawed, use your hands or feet to gently but firmly press the plant back into the soil. If the ground is still frozen, cover the exposed roots with compost or mulch immediately to protect them from the air until you can properly replant them.

Long-Term Prevention:

The secret is Mulch and Drainage. A 2-3 inch layer of mulch acts as an insulator, slowing down the freezing and thawing of the soil and preventing the formation of ice lenses. Additionally, improving soil drainage (adding organic matter) reduces the amount of “heavable” water in the soil profile.

Prime Targets and Lookalikes

Frost heaving is often confused with Rodent Damage (Moles/Voles). The difference: Rodents create tunnels you can feel with your feet, and they often eat the roots. Frost heaving leaves the roots intact but physically moves the whole plant, and there will be no “tunnel” entrance.

Shallow-rooted perennials (Heuchera, Strawberries, Primrose) and anything planted late in the fall.

Frequently Asked Questions

The responses provided in this FAQ are synthesized from peer-reviewed plant diagnostic studies and standardized troubleshooting protocols from university horticultural clinics. We focus on evidence-based explanations to provide clear, scientific clarity on the most common questions regarding environmental plant injury.

Why does frost heaving only happen in certain parts of my yard?

It requires a “Perfect Storm” of three things: Freezing temperatures, a constant water supply (wicking), and “frost-susceptible” soil (silt or clay). If your soil is sandy, the water drains away before it can form ice lenses. If you have a high water table or a low spot that stays wet, that area will heave every single year.

I just moved into a new build and all my new shrubs are "popping" out of the ground. Is the builder to blame?

Often, yes. New builds often have highly compacted subsoil covered by a thin layer of topsoil. This creates a “bathtub effect” where water sits right at the root zone. When that water freezes, it has nowhere to go but UP, taking your new shrubs with it. Core aeration and deep mulching are your only fixes.

Scientific Authority

This profile is built on objective horticultural research and plant pathology data from university-led extension programs. We prioritize physiological evidence regarding environmental stress factors, nutrient availability, and cellular response to provide an unbiased assessment of each abiotic disorder.

Primary Resources

  • Penn State Extension: “Frost Heaving in the Garden”
  • University of Illinois: “Winter Soil Heaving”
  • Michigan State University: “Reducing Frost Heave Damage”